From disaster comes recovery and hope
“As you shift and spin your way down toward Lights Creek, remember to stop and take in that killer view of Lone Rock … wow! If you catch it during a passing storm you may be reminded of Mordor and wonder if the eye is watching.”
The Sagebrush to Snowbanks route takes in some of the best of the northern Plumas and Southern Lassen County areas, and at nearly 137 miles, it’s one you can knock it out in a long weekend. While much of this area has been impacted by fire through the recent years, there are still so many beautiful areas that either did not burn recently, or are rolling through the various stages of recovery, each with its own beauty and intrigue.
In 2021, the Dixie Fire burned almost 1 million acres across Plumas, Lassen and Butte Counties. These communities suffered greatly from the loss of business, visitation and forest cover. As the region is recovering, it is finding promises of new life and opportunities but the shadows of the past remain—and they are not all bad.
This route starts and ends in Greenville, the community most impacted by the Dixie Fire, but if it was a high school graduate, it would be voted ‘Most Likely to Succeed.’
We started at Wild Plumas, a great little nugget of green trees, flat ground, camping and parking along a burbling creek. This is an awesome place to camp overnight and gear and beer up before the tour. For a very reasonable price, they will let you park your car there in a safe location while you ride.
Moving clockwise along the route, you’ll warm up your legs with a short dirt climb over to Lake Almanor, where you will find a paved recreation trail along the shore that will remind you of some rides at Disneyland. Pedaling toward Chester, you’ll have to suffer through a little pavement while circling around the north arm of the lake. Use the opportunity to stop at one of several places to eat, drink and be merry. I fell into a two-beer lunch break, which greased up the rest of the 64-mile day.
Finally, it’s time to head off the pavement! You’ll start with a rail to trail conversion at the east end of the bridge in Chester. Drop right in on this one and find your way past the campground store, and you are on the right path… literally. This rail trail will take you almost all the way to Westwood. If you are lucky, the good people at Burros-n-Churros will set you up with an enormous burrito, and will probably sell you some ice cream and whatever else it looks like you need. This is also a nice place to get the last of the things you need for the night.
Carry on out of Westwood and up to the Bizz Johnson Trail and get ready for eyeball overload. This trail passes along another rail trail conversion, eventually passing by through-cuts, high-desert meadow views and a gradual climb that smooths out before a gradual drop. About halfway along, you will find Goumaz Campground, where there are water and bathrooms. If it’s busy, carry on over the road bridge and a little road on the east side drops to some unofficial campsites with a view. Goodnight—that was your biggest day if you made it this far.
The next day, head down to Susanville, passing through even more magical scenes, like old rail tunnels and nothing-but-downhill butter. If you are feeling adventurous, check out the south side singletrack all the way to Susanville. Once you’re in town, go hit the stores as needed (Did your sleeping mat lose air? Or your stove run out of juice?).
Turn and get ready for the burn as you climb up and over Diamond Mountain. There are a lot of natural water sources along that climb so no need to camel-up in Susanville. Once over the top, it’s an easy cruise down to Antelope Lake where you’ll find lots of camping (and maybe too many campers as well). If that’s not your jam, look for camping along the aspen groves just before Antelope or just past the lake on the road down to Lone Rock Valley.
As you shift and spin your way down toward Lights Creek, remember to stop and take in that killer view of Lone Rock … wow! If you catch it during a passing storm you may be reminded of Mordor and wonder if the eye is watching.
Continue down Lights Creek Canyon but keep your eyes on the road—it’s not easy as the views across the valley soar for days and don’t stop until you hit the valley floor and the final pavement stretch.
Here’s where you stop in Taylorsville … you deserve it. There is the fantastic Young’s Market with made-to-order sandwiches, Grizzly Bite Cafe for pizza, burgers and brews and an old timers bar that will be calling your name.
Then, spin around Indian Valley through bucolic scenery and dream of buying one of those homes so you can spend your mornings drinking coffee with THAT view.
You’ve done the thing by this point … take in all the happy feels. Roll through Greenville and smile and wave at everyone. As you finish off the last mile to Wild Plumas you’ll feel good with a nice flat ending to your rig. High five your friends and make sure you hit the food trucks in Greenville before you head home.